[DELI MAN
screens Saturday May 16th at 7:40 pm and Sunday May 17th at 4:30 pm
at the Cleveland Cinematheque.]
Review
by Bob Ignizio
The delicatessen has long been a part
of Jewish-American life. DELI MAN
chronicles the history of this culinary institution from a peak in
the thirties, when New York alone boasted thousands of delis, to the
present day in which only about 150 remain in the entire United
States. It's a story filled to bursting with pastrami and corned
beef, told by the admittedly “mashugana” (crazy) individuals who
keep the tradition alive, and their customers both famous and not.
Although
the film interviews a number of deli owners still plying their trade
in New York, it's Ziggy Gruber, a trained French Chef who learned the
deli business as a kid from his grandparents, who gets the most
screen time with his Houston, TX establishment Kenny and Ziggy's. So
yes, in case you were wondering, there are Jews in Texas, and they
make a damn fine sandwich. Going to the deli is about more than just
food, though – it's a huge part of the Jewish-American cultural
tradition. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly, delis also helped
“Americanize” many Jews back in the thirties.


